Pelting rain greeted us this morning as we leave our B&B in Lostwithiel for our drive south to the town of Fowey (Foy) on the coast. The Fowey River begins on Bodmin Moor and comes into this cove. The roads down into town are steep and narrow with only designated bus traffic permitted. We catch the small bus at a “park and display” lot above town. There are only two inches of clearance in places between the bus and buildings.
Our walk is brief because we are getting very wet and cold — truly miserable weather! We walk uphill to a hotel for cream tea (Del) and dessert (me). Yes, we need comfort food. Del has a map of the town on his GPS unit and he finds a shortcut back to our car.
We duck into a shop to avoid some hail and then find a fish and chips place for supper. It advertises that it uses good beef drippings for frying!
The next day we return to Cambridge by way of Jamaica Inn, Bodmin Moor.
The staff is friendly and the innkeeper does not roar at us as in Daphne du Maurier’s novel, Jamaica Inn.
Across the road is a sign to Dozmary Pool, out on the moor. Legend has it that King Arthur’s sword, Excalibur, was thrown into the pool after his death. Tennyson wrote much about King Arthur including a poem about his death and the sword, Mort d’Arthur. Some say it referred to a different pool, but now it is thought to refer to Dozmary Pool. Complete poem
A verse from the poem in public domain. www.itswritten.com
Then quickly rose Sir Bedivere, and ran,
And, leaping down the ridges lightly, plunged
Among the bulrush-beds, and clutch’d the sword,
And strongly wheel’d and threw it. The great brand
Made lightnings in the splendour of the moon,
And flashing round and round, and whirl’d in an arch,
Shot like a streamer of the northern morn,
Seen where the moving isles of winter shock
By night, with noises of the northern sea.
So flash’d and fell the brand Excalibur:
But ere he dipt the surface, rose an arm
Clothed in white samite, mystic, wonderful,
And caught him by the hilt, and brandish’d him
Three times, and drew him under in the mere.
And lightly went the other to the King.
We decide to see Dozmary Pool and start down the one lane road into the depths of Bodmin Moor.
Cornwall is full of history and beauty. Although warmer weather and balmy days would be very nice a little later in the year, our stormy vacation has been enriching. The sense of place in books and history is so important.
Photographs copyright Evelyn and Del Weliver
Some links to books:
Trip planning possibilities:
We rented our car through www.autoeurope.com.
We picked our car up at Heathrow, but you could rent within Cornwall.
Journey planning in Cornwall with transport information
The best road route planning was www.theaa.com. It tells you what road is coming next and gives pictures, like a car GPS does.
Tourist information offices have detailed A-Z maps that show the little grey roads.
Our B&B in Lostwithiel was Penrose: http://www.penrosebb.co.uk/